DIY – Keezer Build
One of the best parts of homebrewing for me is sharing my creations with friends and family when they come over. Having a few beers on tap is a great easy way to serve the beer quickly without the cleanup of bottles afterwards. I bought a kegerator a few years ago and will never go back to bottling. Even though I had this kegerator, I had always wanted to build a keezer (A kegerator built from a chest freezer). My kegerator decided to crap out one day, so I thought it was the perfect opportunity to build my keezer. This article will walk you through how I built my keezer, and it will hopefully show you how easy it can be for you to build as well.
When you look up ideas online, everyone’s keezer has a slightly different design to it. I will list the materials I used to build my keezer, but no two keezers are the same. Feel free to take these ideas and run with it in your own direction.
Main materials used in this project
- Frigidaire 7.0 cu ft Chest Freezer
- 2” x 6” x 10 ft pine board
- 1” x 8” x 10 ft pine/common board
- 1” thick rigid Pink Insulation
- Silicone Sealant
- Inkbird Controller – ITC-308
- 4” SS Shank assembly – http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843425.htm
- Shank 90° Tailpiece – http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843461.htm
- Shank Nut – http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843462.htm
- Shank Gasket – http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843468.htm
- SS Intertap Flow Control Faucet – http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843160.htm
- Circular Saw
- 1” wood spade bit or hole saw
- Caulk Gun
I started with the frame of the wood collar. This is where all the taps will mount. Measure the top surface of your specific freezer and cut 4 pieces of your 2” x 6” board to the size you need. For my specific freezer, the frame is 35“ x 20 ¾”. It’s important to purchase boards that are as straight and flat as possible if you don’t have a planar to make them straight. You want to make sure it will seal well when assembled onto the freezer.
Next, I cut the 1” x 8” board. This board is what will be seen from the outside of the keezer. I made a few 45° miter cuts, but this step is optional. I used a few clamps to hold it in place and make sure that I assembled it as straight as possible. I then drilled a few holes and used carriage bolts to hold it together. I followed the same step for the side pieces. I didn’t put a piece on the back as it won’t be visible.
Once all 1” x 8” pieces were assembled, I drilled the six 1” diameter holes that would be used to mount the taps. At this point, it’s also good to drill any other holes you think you will need. I drilled a hole in the back for the co2 tubing, as well as one for the temperature controller probe.
That’s all it takes for the construction of the collar. I stained and sealed it, and started to prep for assembling it to the freezer. I took the lid off the freezer by unscrewing the two hinges from the back.
I then screwed the lid onto the wood collar, ensuring the seal on the lid compressed correctly onto the collar. Then I used silicone sealant to secure the wood collar to the top of the freezer. I used a few full kegs to press the collar down to hold it there overnight so the silicone could dry.
The next day, I added insulation to the inside of the collar to help the freezer run a little more efficient. I then installed all the accessories, such as the co2 manifold, shanks, faucets and temperature controller.
If you want, you can also make your own drip tray for the keezer. With a couple extra 2” x 6” pieces, you can make a frame that will not only hold your drip tray, but also act as a shelving unit for glassware. I made the frame, and then added plywood to close the back and create swinging doors.
Check out the finished keezer below and let me know if you have any questions. I’m happy to go into greater detail with you if you plan to do a build for yourself!